I'd Rather Be...In Japan: People

If you've ever heard of Kabuki theater, then you probably think of actors in Tokyo striking poses and half-singing their lines in archaic Japanese. It's a classical performance art in Japan, but it's not just in Tokyo. For hundreds of years, another form of kabuki called jikabuki lives on in Gujo Hachiman.

Jikabuki means 'local theater.' Amateur actors have been putting on plays yearly for generations. The stage used to be at a nearby shrine called Takao. The shrine has a rotating stage that made for some great theater. The performances were considered gifts to the gods, so the show has a religious element even though the stories aren't necessarily religious.

Jikabuki differs from kabuki in several ways. Probably the biggest difference is that women are allowed to act on stage. I spoke with Futamura Maki, one of this years actors, about the group. Maki-san has acted in the jikabuki since she was six. Her brother also acts in the plays, as do many of her friends.

Another difference is something called ohineri, which means 'wrapped money.' It's a local tradition to wrap some coins in tissue paper. Then, when your favorite actor delivers a great line or strikes a particularly majestic pose, you throw the onineri onto the stage and shower them with money.

For Kazu, this was the best part of the show. He sat in the front and gathered all the ohineri that didn't make it onto the state and tossed it back on. His scurrying around and tossing coins didn't bother anyone, because of yet another difference from kabuki theater.

This show was on a stage in a local elementary school. The audience members brought blankets and snacks. We were lucky to have a box of wrapped rice with other goodies and all kinds of traditional food shared by a friend whose been coming to the jikabuki for decades. When we entered, I was greeted by people saying 'yookoso', or 'welcome.' It felt great.

The first plays were performed by kids, around six years old and up. They were adorable, striking dramatic poses and acting like samurai and princesses. There was one bizarre scene where a maiden was being ferried across a lake by a boatman. Halfway across the lake, the boatman stripped off his kimono to reveal a banana and two limes. The scandalized maiden lamented the trespass of decency, and the audience got a huge laugh. Then the boy plucked off the banana and tossed it into the crowd. I can't see that playing in Peoria.

It was a great night, and even though I couldn't understand a word of it, I ate well, saw some fun acting, and had a good time with family and friends. If you're ever in Gujo Hachiman, I recommend the Jikabuki. It's free, and it's fun.

From Japan '08

The Banana Boat

From Japan '08

Great food at break time.

From Japan '08

An character in distress.

From Japan '08

Kazu poised to throw ohineri onstage.

From Japan '08

A samurai contemplates a katana.

The big summer holiday in Japan is called Obon. It’s originally a buddist festival that goes back 500 years. Each town celebrates it a little differently, but there’s usually some folk dancing, music, and food. For the hardworking salarymen of Japan, obon may be one of the only weeks in the year where they get a few days off to spend with their family.

In our very lovely town of Gujo Hachiman, Obon is a really big deal. The Bon Odori, or bon festival, lasts weeks, with dancing at the end of every day. The final three days of the odori, we have dancing that lasts until 5 in the morning. The old, narrow streets are lit with lanterns hung from food stalls and live musicians play traditional music. There is even a famous dance called the "Gujo Dance" that is performed all around the world.

We went to the dance the other night and had a great time. I took Kazu home at around midnight, and Noriko stayed. She went back last night and danced until 5AM. I wish I could have seen it. There's always next year.